When we took the boat to Block Island the engine overheated at the
worst time. I kept pushing it regardless to get up through the East River. When I saw cracks opening in
the cylinder head, I figured the engine was toast. I shut it down and
managed to sail through Hell Gate. The atomic 4 became a last resort for the
remainder of our voyage. It started right up every time, but the water
oozing all over couldn't be good. I swore I'd replace the atomic 4 with a
diesel. After I read discussions on the issue, I was swayed away from the
idea considering the cost being greater than could be recovered through the
value of the boat. One argued if you want a boat with a diesel engine, then
sell your boat and buy one with a diesel. Others stood firmly with the
reliability of the atomic 4, something I had not experienced. Reluctantly
I turned my attention to repairing the atomic 4.
I researched replacement cylinder heads. I sold the original
atomic 4 from the Redwing for $50 to get it out of my garage. Maybe that
wasn't such a good idea as I saw prices for another used atomic 4. I
checked Moyer Marine and they sell a new aftermarket head for about $400.
For that price I could have another used engine taking up space in my
garage, but it could be pretty worn out. I notice the Moyer Marines
rebuilt engine comes with a new cylinder head. I decided to ordered the new head.
While on craigslist I saw someone selling a Moyer Marine
re-designed water pump. It comes with 4 thumb screws to remove the
impeller cover plate rather than the six tiny screws I had struggled with every
time. The guy was also selling Moyer Marines cooling bypass kit. I
got them both.
Lastly, I wanted to flush the block. There are two
recommended ways to flush, acid flush and pressure flush. Both are
recommended, but I fell short on buying the pressure flush kit. I did
finally follow Moyer's recommendation of installing a tee in the raw water
intake line so I could draw muriatic acid solution into the engine for the acid flush. My failure to follow this recommendation, I determined, could
very well be the reason for my cracked head. Not only is the tee good for
acid flush, it's also used for drawing antifreeze in the engine during
winterization. I hadn't been doing that step. I just unscrewed the
drain plugs to drain the engine of cooling water before winter. Last
winter was extremely cold. When I launched in the spring and started my
engine, I had cooling water pouring all over only to discover a freeze plug in
the head had popped out. I put the freeze plug back and the engine seemed
ok. I pondered whether the overheating could have cracked the head. I feel it's more likely it cracked from
freezing water, and the cracks opened up when the engine overheated. This
time I'm following Moyer's recommendations all the way.
My new cylinder head arrive from Moyer Marine. My water pump
and bypass kit arrived from the craigslist seller, and I got a tee, ball valve
and hose from Home Depot. The old cylinder head came off without any
problems. All the water passages in the head were completely plugged.
It never had a chance to cool. The water passages from the head
into the block were also clogged. I took a coat hanger and compressed air
to open them up. After I had the block cleaned up, I installed the new
head.
Next I installed the improved water pump and bypass kit. I
wasn't sure I needed the bypass kit, but figured why not. It's not bad having a
valve in the bypass line to control flow if needed. Then came the tee
fitting with ball valve and hose so I can draw intake water from a bucket.
I started the engine and performed the acid flush twice. Each time
black water spewed out of the exhaust pipe. I took the boat for a test
ride down river expecting great improvement. The temp improved but it still seemed to rise above the comfortable level when I pushed the RPMs.
I was eager to get the Redwing back out to the ocean. I
decided to take the boat to Sandy Hook, NJ. We only had a four day
weekend. Just a little more time than it takes to get there and back.
The night before our departure, I paddled out to the mooring so I could
take the Redwing to the nearby dock to pack for our trip. I started the
engine, then it stalled. It turned it over again and nothing. I
couldn't believe it! The engine always started right up. Now after
all the work, nothing.
I began my sequence of debugging. I had spark. I wasn't getting fuel. The electric fuel pump has an oil pressure safety switch that stops power to the fuel pump at low or no pressure. I topped up the oil which was low. I adjust the oil pressure, which
was low. The engine started, and I got the boat to the dock. We packed and
readied the boat for an early start in the morning. The next morning we
motored off the mooring and the engine stalled. I was so pissed. I
bypassed the oil pressure switch and motored south.
We made good time. I was hoping to make Sandy Hook in a day.
As we approached New York Harbor the engine stalled. We must be out
of gas. My fuel gauge still not working, I pulled a fuel container from the locker and
dumped it into the tank. I tried to start the engine again. It
turned over, but nothing. Once again we were in a bad place without an
engine. I hoisted sail and we sailed to Graves End Bay where we dropped
anchor for the night.
The next morning instead of sailing to Sandy Hook, I was working
on the atomic 4 again. I began my process of debugging. Now there
was no spark. I touched the coil and it was real hot. It was a
fairly new coil, put I decided it was the likely culprit. I grabbed my
cell phone and searched for auto parts stores. There was an Autozone 1.5
miles away. I pulled my coil and noticed it had a label on it that said
for use with external resistor. I didn't have an external resistor with
my coil, it was supposed to be the coil with an internal resistor. Why
didn't I see that when I got the coil? A short paddle to shore and walk
to the auto parts store, I was back with the new coil. After installing the new coil, I turned
the engine over. It started right up. Sigh of relief!
We made it to Sandy Hook, had some beach time and sailing time,
then after a short stay headed back to Kingston. After our return I was back on the phone with
Moyer Marine, I ordered a new oil pressure switch, and pressure flush kit. I replaced the pressure switch and took the boat to the nearby dock to performed the pressure flush. With each flush, a surge of black water came out. Another test ride and all seemed
ok.
I wanted to get to Sandy Hook again before end of season.
This time it was early October and we only had three days. We
packed the boat and got an early start down river. Almost immediately the
temperature began to rise. I couldn't believe it! I was crawling at
three knots and the engine was running hot. Once again I pulled the
engine cover and started debugging by tracing the flow of water. Getting water to the
pump. Getting water through the bypass. Getting water through the thermostat.
NOT getting water through the exhaust manifold. I pulled the hoses
off the manifold, then removed the fitting on the outlet side. It was all
clogged. I ran a wire through manifold and cleared the fittings. I started the engine with the outlet house disconnected and pointed
into my cockpit drain. A black surge came out the hose. I reconnected the hose and
continued down the river watching the temp gauge. The temp was low now,
but as I motored it started to climb again. When it started to push to
180, I stopped and pulled the manifold outlet hose again and pointed toward the
cockpit drain. Starting the engine, I saw another black surge of crud dump into the
cock pit. I reconnected and motored on.
It kept going on like this all day. By the time we were below the
tapanzee bridge I had gotten most the crud out of the engine and it was running below temperature and not heating
up. All the crud seemed to be out.
We spent one night in Sandy Hook then motored back. Temp below normal all the way and lots of
water pumping out the exhaust, no matter how hard I ran the engine. Did I finally purge the engine of all the
crap inside? It seems so. I was pushing over 6 knots with engine temp below 145 degrees. Now I have to figure out why the thermostat
isn’t bringing the temp to operating temperature, which seems a better place to
be.
The Redwing is out of the water for
winter. The engine is properly
winterized by drawing the antifreeze in through the tee fitting. The guy who sold me the water pump also gave
me extra thermostats. I just have to
figure out which one works best.
Hi Mark,
ReplyDeleteI am the former owner of your Redwing 30 (1980 thru 2003) She was named Carrottop as we are redheads. I would love to chat sometime. Please feel to connect with me.
Cheers,
Sam Green samgreen@me.com
Hi Sam
ReplyDeleteI'd love to hear more about the boat!
Mark
Mark, nice Blog. I have a pair of Redwing 302, hulls # 55 & 80. Just finished updating my website redwing30.homestead.com .I had West System clear coat epoxy on my coamings and companionway teak for about 5-6 years. In spite of keeping numerous coats of varnish with UV inhibitors on it, the teak/epoxy turned a dark brown-almost obscuring the grain. You can read about it on my website.
ReplyDeleteHi Andy
ReplyDeleteNice to hear from you. I reached out to you when I first got the boat. So far my brightwork has been holding up pretty well with the epoxy base layer over the teak. I start each season with a couple of fresh coats of varnish and it still looks good! No change in color or tone yet.